Posted by Dave on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 11:49AM :

I'm trying to loosen the lug nuts on a 1967 W300. I hit them every day for three weeks with PB Blaster penetrating liquid, and I'm using a big truck cross lug
wrench. Some nuts loosen fine, others I can't budge. I'm aware of the reverse threads, and have loosened some on both sides of the truck. How do I loosen
the others? Heat? If so, how much and where is the best place to apply it? Thanks.
 

• Posted by Don Scott on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 1:17PM :

I used a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 6 foot pipe slid over it. Sometimes I had to do a little jumping on the pipe. This was on a '48 B1 with pretty hefty studs and nuts. A little heat does wonders to keep from breaking off studs. 


• Posted by Robert on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 1:59PM : 

If you are using a breaker bar with an extension and socket, I have found that it helps if you place a jack or a jack-stand under the extension near the
breaker bar. This will support the wrench as you are pushing down or standing on it. Also, antisieze thread compond works wonders after you do get the lug nuts off. I did the studs on my WDX over ten years ago, and after breaking them loose, the lug nuts just spin right off by hand. 


• Posted by mike stone on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 3:49PM :

if you are really really sure that someone has not put the wrong studs (left/right) on either side then find a heavy truck service company in your area call them make an arrangement for a service truck to stop by when working a job in your area & have the truck service man use a 1" air
wrench to remove the nuts (inform him about leftie rightey) thats how they might have been put on trucks require truck tools after they are off you will need to clean the treads very well and then use anti-sieze compound when re-installing  
ps: the truck center can also probably get you the socket & bar assy for future use - should not be too expensive old tire man also ask the tire service man to show you how to use a bar under the tire to install, & line up on studs without lifting the tire/wheel will be money well spent.
 
• Posted by Dave on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 at 9:56AM :

Gary,
What's a Budd wrench?
Where do I get one?
 
• Posted by Gary on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 at 11:58AM :

It's a double-ended socket about 10" long for Budd wheels. One end is square for the inner wheel on duals. The other end is hex for your lug nuts. It has holes for a bar to use for leverage. I think a good truck parts store should carry them. On the other hand, I might have an extra one, complete with surface rust. Mark Davis and I are parting out 4 trucks. I think we have a couple of these wrenches in the package. Email me if you are interested.
 
• Posted by Giles on Tuesday, July 31, 2001 at 1:38AM :

Do it the way a professional mechanic would do it. Heat the lug nuts red hot and let them cool before you take them off with a six point impact socket. Do this before you damage the hex head on the nut. I would replace all the nuts with new ones and pissibly the studs.
 
• Posted by Ed C. on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 1:23PM :

I would try a 3/4" breaker bar & socket (or larger - even 1"), as the 1/2" may be too small and break. If the 3/4" bar won't budge it, even after a 3' or longer pipe is added for leverage, then you may want to invest in a 4:1 torgue multiplier. I picked up a used one on eBay for $50 a couple of years back and it sure has come in handy for these situations! Continue to use vibration while attempting to loosen the nuts. A tap or two with a heavy hammer while trying to loosen them helps if the threads are contaminated and contributing to the binding. I have often wondered if a 3/4 or 1" air wrench would work (600ftlbs?) but never had a compressor large enough or enough mad money to find out! I guess maybe a "real" mechanic can help on this one. Good Luck!
 
• Posted by bruce in CO on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 1:38PM :

In hopes of using a 1/2"-drive impact wrench to get the 1 1/2" lug nuts off of my '53 B-4-PW, I bought a 1/2-to-3/4 impact adapter and a 1 1/2" 3/4"-drive socket. Unfortunately, the O.D. of the socket will not allow the socket to fit over the lug nut due to the clearance between the lug nuts and the hub. At this point, I still don't have a socket or lug wrench that will fit the lugs! Mike M.; if you read this, you'll know where I'm at!!! Bruce
 
• Posted by Joe Cimoch on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 2:28PM :

Snap-on makes a 1/2" drive 1 1/2" deep impact socket. Pricey, but maybe some other company makes these too.

Stock Number SIM480
Name Socket, Impact, Deep, 1 1/2", 6-Point
Price $42.75
SIZE, inches 1 1/2
STYLE 6-Point
FINISH Industrial Finish
ASME/ANSI B107.2-1995 
I have one of these and it fits fine.
 

• Posted by Mark Francis on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 8:29PM :

Matco makes basically the same 1/2 inch drive 1 1/2 inch impact socket CP 486, which fits fine between hub and lug nut. If I remember, it cost me at least that much. No bargain to be found there. Keep us posted as you get your nuts off.
 
• Posted by Eric B. on Monday, July 30, 2001 at 12:12PM :

I tried a big cross wrench on my 58 W100s lugnuts, and could not budge half of them(the tires had not been off in years).
Then I tried a breaker bar(in a pinch a 1/2 ratchet) with the right size socket, and a 3 foot long pipe.
I stood on the pipe(to save my arms) and the lug nuts popped free.
I found that a couple had rusted to the rim enough that a bit of the nut was gone.
When you get it apart clean everything as well as you can with wire brushes or taps/dies, and then put some oil on the threads.