Detergent vs. non-Detergent motor oil


I hear that Power Wagons require Non Detergent type motor oil.  I understand that detergent is a substance put into most modern motor oil as a sludge preventor.  My question: why wouldn't you want to use detergent motor oil in an old engine like a 230?
 

Contact them for specifics on oil ratings,  but the later the letter in the alphabet the more stringent the requirments for the oil - later is better so
J is better than H. If you cleaned the engine well, change the oil now (500 miles) and then again in 500, then progressively increase the interval.

Remember - oil is cheap - engine repair is not.

Non detergent oils have no place in road vehicles.  By all means use a 10-30 or 10-40 motor oil but only if you are reasonably sure the your engine is clean of gross residue (sludge).  The result of previous poor maintenance (extended drain intervals), the use of non-detergent or poor detergent oil may have left large quantities of sludge deposits all over your engine.  Any attempt to remove this sludge with additives, diesel fuel, ATF, or any commercial cleaning additive will result in everything washing to the sump of the oil pan.  That is where the oil pickup is located.  Enough sludge in the pan will plug the screen of the oil pickup resulting in oil starvation.

Living example; 1980 Ford 351 cid V8 with about 100,000 miles.  The original owner changed oil as recommended by the manufacture, every 6000 miles.  (Poor interpertation on owner part)  He used a leading brand of 10-30 oil. (advertised by a famous “golf pro). Later he sold vehicle to an equantance who preferred a different (superor) brand of oil.  After an oil change, and less than 2000 miles on a cross country trip, the engine seized.  We dismantled the engine after it was towed home. Oil pickup was solidly plugged with sludge as was every nook and crany where oil can be found.  We believe if we had continued using the oil recommended by famous golf pro the engine would NOT have seized (so soon), although its condition was terminal.

Moral of story is start with good detergent oil in new, rebuilt, or clean engines, change every 3000 miles, and stay away from oil advertised by famous golf pro’s.  I’ve got more examples but this was a classic. The only non-detergent oil in my garage goes in my air compressor.

A good grade of oil has many properties and does many things, i.e.; exibits low pour characteristic, low carbon residue, good oiliness, high film strength, high resistance to oxidation, anti corrosion, anti foam, high dispersion, high detergent, and hold dirty particles in suspension.
The majority of the oils available to us have these features...some better than others.  Racing oils are for racing and have better oiliness and film strength characteristics, but less detergent additives.  Use common sense here.



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