I'll repost, good Luck!
ELECTRICAL
6 TO 12V CONVERSION
PARTS:
12 Volt Generator
12 Volt Regulator for Generator (Borg Warner #183)
12 Volt Alternator - Delco with an internal regulator. These alternators
are available in several different configurations with the most common
being the model
10-SI (63 AMP output) which was used on General Motors vehicles from
the 1970s through the early 1980s. Positive ground systems must be changed
to
negative if using this alternator.
12 volt coil
12 volt battery
12 Volt lights
12 to 6 volt reducer Standard #RU-100
Ballast Resister - Standard #RU-10
4 terminal solenoid - Standard #SS581 (optional)
Universal two post starter switch (optional)
PROCEDURES:
Find a 12 volt generator from a wrecking yard or trade your 6 volt
in for a rebuilt 12 volt (ROTEX #9112).
Run a 10 gauge wire from the A terminal of the generator to the ARM
terminal of the voltage regulator.
Run a 14 gauge wire from the F terminal of the generator to the FLD
terminal of the voltage regulator.
FOR WDX POSITIVE GROUND SYSTEM
Based on the wiring diagram for a WDX, you will need to eliminate
the feed from the BAT side of the voltage regulator to the horn, and
plug horn into the
12 to 6 volt reducer off of ammeter.
From the positive side of the ammeter, voltage is fed to the lighting
system. Splice a voltage reducer into this wire. Also splice a voltage
reducer into the wire
coming from the F terminal of the ignition switch going to the fuel
gauge. It may be best to have a separate reducer for the fuel gauge for
the WDX.
Replace 6 volt lights/bulbs with 12 volt and upgrade any fuses
Run a 10 gauge wire from the BAT terminal of the voltage regulator
to the + side of the ammeter.
You can use your 6 volt starter.
Connect of the 12 volt battery.
Polarize the charging system by following the installation instructions
for the voltage regulator.
Starter will spin same direction if WDX is converted to negative ground
system
FOR NEGATIVE GROUND SYSTEMS
Install the 4 terminal solenoid. + battery cable to plus side, -
side battery cable to starter terminal. Run a 10 gauge wire from the BAT
terminal of the
voltage regulator to the + side of the ammeter. Run a 10 gauge wire
from the - side of the ammeter to the + side battery cable terminal
of the solenoid.
Run a 10 gauge wire from the + side battery cable terminal of the
solenoid to the battery terminal of the ignition switch.
All other wiring you can use 14, 16 or 18 gauge or what ever size you
prefer.
Plug the ballast resister into the wire that goes from the ignition
switch to the coil. This will reduce the voltage from 12 to around 6-8.
A good place to mount it
is on the firewall.
The two small solenoid terminals, one is + and one is -. On the
negative side post, run a wire to the side of the ballast resister that
is going to the coil
(you'll then have two wires connected to that side). The purpose of
this is to get the full 12 volts for a "hot" start then it reverts back
to 6-8 volts when running.
If your existing solenoid is a single terminal, you cannot set your
system up for a hot spark start. Using the ballast resister requires no
upgrade of points, or
condenser.
Change out all 6 volt lights/bulbs and upgrade any fuses as necessary.
Install the 12 to 6 volt reducer from the ignition side of the ignition
switch and feed 6 volt wires to the positive side of Fuel Gauge/heater/windshield
wipers or
any other 6 volt modules.
Use 6 volt starter
Connect 12 volt battery up.
Polarize the charging system by following the installation instructions
for the voltage regulator.
10-SI WIRING INSTRUCTIONS:
The 10-SI alternator has three terminals, however only two of them
get connected to the truck. (Thus, the 10-SI is sometimes referred to as
a two-wire or
three-wire alternator)
The Bat terminal should be connected to the ammeter + side with
a 10 gauge wire.
The number 1 terminal should be connected to the ignition switch
ignition terminal with 16 or 18 gauge wire so the alternator only receives
power when the
truck is on. A one amp / 50 volt diode should be installed between
the ignition switch and the 1 terminal to prevent backward current flow
through the
alternator when the ignition switch is off.
The number 2 terminal should be connected directly to the Bat terminal
(16 or 18 gauge wire) on the back of the alternator.
A good auto electric shop can make the Delco 10-S into a "self energizing"
ONE WIRE alternator. Single wire goes from alternator to ammeter to battery
terminal on the starter switch. They can also wire them for 6, 8, or
24 volts and POS or NEG ground.
Hardest part is building a new mounting bracket. I paid a lot for a
"universal" bracket that looked like is was made from an Erector set. (Only
the old guys will
know what that is.) Use a 4 inch light weight angle iron. Drill to
match the old bracket to block bolt holes. Slotted bolt holes will allow
you to adjust it so the
fanbelt pulleys line up. Weld or bolt upright lugs for the alternator
mounting bolt. You may want to trim away some of the main angle iron before
final
installation for looks. Belt adjuster may work without much modification.
Save the old generator pulley that fits the WIDE belt. You can also reuse
an M-37
pulley by chucking it in a metal lathe (The auto electric shop probably
has one) and machining the "snout" on the back of the pulley so it is very
short. No
rocket science here. It should take less than an hour to fabricate
and install. Before you do the final installation, use it as a model and
make one more - for
the next power wagon you buy.